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Guatemala backpacking route: 3-5 weeks

Written by admin on . Posted in Guatamala. No Comments on Guatemala backpacking route: 3-5 weeks

Guatemala was the perfect start of my half-year journey across Central America. I flew into Guatemala City and went straight to Antigua, where my slow solo trip started. No plan, no end date, just a 55L backpack and an adventurous and curious soul. Let me share my travel route and give you inspiration for your journey across the country of 37 volcanoes, indigenous cultures and scenic bus journeys.

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    1. Antigua

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    1. Quetzaltenango

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    1. Lake Atitlan

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    1. Lanquin

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    1. Flores

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Antigua – 9 nights

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I initially booked three nights in Antigua and ended up staying for nine. This colonial town is easy to fall in love with. Its charming streets and cute shops and restaurants do the trick. Antigua also offers plenty of cool day trips though. The most popular one is the overnight hike of Volcán Acatenango, during which you get to see the active volcano Fuego erupt and colour the ashes orange at night.

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How to get from the airport to Antigua

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There are lots of ways to get to Antigua from the airport in Guatemala City. I arrived late at night and therefore preferred having my transportation figured out beforehand, but this isn’t a must. I’d booked an airport transfer through the hostel I was staying at. Most ho(s)tels in Antigua offer this service! It costs around $30, and it would obviously be cheaper if you would share it with other travellers.

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Airport taxis would be a fairly expensive option as well. I don’t know the exact prices, as I chose the reliability of a hostel transfer over an airport taxi. You will find lots of taxi drivers approaching you as you leave the arrival hall. Ordering an Uber is usually cheaper!

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Tip for budget solo travellers: pop a message in ,this Facebook group to see if there’s anyone you can share transport with!

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If you want to dive right into the Guatemalan experience, the chicken bus would be your way to go! Expect an adventurous ride, as the road between Guatemala City and Antigua includes a lot of curves, and the bus driver doesn’t seem to bother slowing down. It’s the cheapest way to get to Antigua and shouldn’t cost more than a couple of dollars.

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To do

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    • Visit Arco de Santa Catalina in the early morning

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    • Take a walk to viewpoint Cerro de la Cruz

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    • Try new food at the Central Market

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    • Go people-watching at the central park

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    • Do a chocolate workshop in town

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    • Take a day trip to Hobbitenango

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    • Visit Catedral de Santiago

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    • Hike Acatenango volcano

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Read about everything you need to know about your visit to Antigua in the free guide I created. It includes more information about Acatenango, the best restaurants in town, and where to stay. You can grab a copy by subscribing to my mailing list at the very bottom of this page.

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Quetzaltenango (Xela) – 7 nights

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Not the most typical city to visit in Guatemala, which is arguable. Yes, it’s not the prettiest city you’ll come across during your travels, but it does have a lot of cool day trips to offer! Quetzaltenango, also known as Xela, is surrounded by volcanoes, among them the highest volcano in Guatemala. I didn’t take any day trips from Xela though, as I was there to further improve my Spanish at one of the many language schools: Utatlán. As I already was on a B2 level beforehand, the private lessons weren’t much of an addition to me, but I wouldn’t have wanted to miss this, as I got to stay with a local family for a full week! Elizabeth was the sweetest host, and I’m still in touch with her daughters through Instagram.

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How to get from Antigua to Xela

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I had conveniently arranged my transfer from Antigua to Xela through Utatlán, my language school. At like any backpacker’s spot in Guatemala, though, you can just ask at your hostel about shuttle options. The drive from Antigua to Xela takes about 5 hours and costs 200Q.

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To do

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    • Stay with a local family

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    • Attend a Spanish language school

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    • Go sightseeing in the old centre

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    • Interact with locals at Mercado La Democracia

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    • Visit Fuente Georginas hot springs

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    • Hike to the holy Lake Chicabal (the crater of a volcano)

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    • Face the highest volcano in Guatemala (Tajumulco)

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Lago de Atitlán – 7 nights

A popular spot for backpackers, and in my opinion, it lives up to the hype. I’m a very down-to-earth person, but there’s something magical about Lake Atitlan that made me feel at peace there. You can easily spend a week here, and there are many towns to choose from. I can recommend starting at the biggest town, Panajachel, as this is where most buses and shuttles arrive into. I then went to stay at Santa Cruz, which is a much smaller, quiet town, featuring the best views of the volcanoes.

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How to get from Xela to Lake Atitlan

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Again, my shuttle was arranged through Utatlán. It’s about a 3-hour drive from Xela to Panajachel this time.

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To do

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    • Explore Reserva Natural Atitlan to watch coatis, birds, and monkeys while walking on hanging bridges and passing a stunning waterfall

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    • Look for street art in Panajachel

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    • Hike the Indian Nose during sunrise

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    • Explore other towns by taking the public boats

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    • Go supping in the early morning

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Check out my favourite hostels in Guatemala here

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Antigua – 7 nights

Since I wanted to go to Lanquin for Semuc Champey next, and you’ve got to pass Antigua (coming from Lake Atitlan), I figured I’d spend an extra week there. ¿Por qué no?

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How to get from Lake Atitlan to Antigua

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Panajachel is the most convenient town to travel from. There are lots of tourist shuttles leaving from Panajachel to Antigua daily. I suggest booking them directly at the shuttle service instead of through your hostel. One of the shuttle services is located near the main dock in Panajachel. They cost 100Q (around $13) and leave at 5 AM, 9 AM, 12 PM and 4 PM (October 2021).

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I travelled from Panajachel to Antigua by chicken bus. Since there’s no direct bus, and chicken buses have no schedules, I thought it might be helpful to share my route below:

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Panajachel – Sololá: 15 min / 5Q

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Sololá – Los Encuentros: 30 min / 5Q

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Los Encuentros – Chimaltenango: 75 min / 20Q

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Chimaltenango – Antigua: 40 min / 10Q

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Be aware that you need to pay halfway through each ride, when the bus driver’s companion starts walking through the bus to collect everyone’s money. They tend to let tourists pay more, so keep an eye on (or ask around) what locals are paying. I ended up paying double (40Q) for the ride from Los Encuentros to Chimaltenango.

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Lanquin – 2 nights

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The town itself offers nothing worth mentioning, but you’re likely to stay here if you’re keen on visiting Semuc Champey. A gorgeous green valley with beautiful blue water flowing through it. Most hostels offer a day tour to Semuc Champey for about $18 pp. It includes caving (not for the claustrophobic), going to a waterfall, swinging into the water, hiking for about 40 min up to beautiful a viewpoint, and going for a refreshing dip in the water afterwards.

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How to get from Antigua to Lanquin

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Since Lanquin is located further away from Antigua, I would suggest paying a little extra for a tourist shuttle, rather than taking a lot of different chicken buses. It’s obviously possible to go by chicken bus, just ask at your hostel about the first bus you need to take. The trip from Antigua to Lanquin is a scenic one and takes about 8-9 hours by shuttle bus, which you can book at almost every hostel. I booked mine through ,Somos hostel and it cost me 225Q in 2021.

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To do

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    • Chill at the pool of your hostel

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    • Go tubing in the river

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    • Visit Semuc Champey (on a tour)

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Flores – 4 nights

Located in the very northeast of Guatemala, relatively close to the border of Mexico and Belize, you’ll find the island of Flores, in Lago Petén Itzá. The town is small and colourful, and a perfect base for those wishing to visit the Maya ruins of Tikal. There are no cars on the island, but everything is within walking distance anyway.

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How to get from Lanquin to Flores

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This is another long scenic bus drive, which is recommended to do by shuttle bus again. The costs would be around 300 quetzals and it takes about 10 hours.

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To do

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    • Day trip to Tikal

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    • Take a boat to some of the beaches around the lake for a swim

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    • Day trip to Yaxha (less visited Maya ruins)

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    • Day trip to the Blue Crater for a swim in clear waters

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Antigua – 2 nights

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I then returned to Antigua a third time, to have a final convenient stop in Guatemala before moving on to my second country of this trip.

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The trip from Flores to Antigua takes about 11-12 hours by shuttle bus and costs 300Q during the day and 420Q at night. They also stop at Rio Dulce, which is another destination in Guatemala that you could add to your itinerary.

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My route in summary

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Antigua: 9 nights

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Xela: 7 nights

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Atitlan: 7 nights

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Antigua: 7 nights

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Lanquin: 2 nights

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Flores: 4 nights

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Antigua: 2 nights

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Alternative 3-week route

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Antigua: 6 nights

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El Paredon: 3 nights

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Atitlan: 6 nights

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Lanquin: 2 nights

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Flores: 3 nights

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Antigua: 1 night

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Alternative 4-week route

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Antigua: 7 nights

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El Paredon: 3 nights

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Atitlan: 7 nights

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Lanquin: 3 nights

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Flores: 3 nights

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Rio Dulce: 2 nights

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Antigua: 3 nights

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Alternative 5-week route

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Antigua: 7 nights

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Xela: 4 nights

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Atitlan: 7 nights

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El Paredon: 3 nights

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Antigua: 3 nights

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Lanquin: 2 nights

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Flores: 4 nights

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Rio Dulce: 2 nights

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Antigua: 3 nights

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And that marks 5 incredible weeks in Guatemala! Next up: El Salvador.

Looking for some more info about this part of the world? Have a look at my ,other destinations in Latin America.n

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Do you have any questions about my travels, or do you see a great opportunity to collaborate? Feel free to send me an ,Instagram DM or email (floraflies.nl@gmail.com).

The best hostels in Nicaragua for solo travellers

Written by admin on . Posted in Nicaragua. No Comments on The best hostels in Nicaragua for solo travellers

During my solo trip around Latin America, I’ve stayed in LOTS of hostels. As a solo traveller who looks out for hostels that stimulate mingling between backpackers, my top priorities are hostel activities, nice communal areas, and a hostel kitchen. Are you planning a trip to Nicaragua soon? I got you! These are my hostel recommendations for León, Managua, Little Corn Island, Granada, Ometepe, and San Juan del Sur.

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    1. León

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    1. Managua

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    1. Little Corn Island

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    1. Granada

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    1. Ometepe

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    1. San Juan del Sur

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This post is in no way sponsored by or created in collaboration with any of the hostels. I only recommend these hostels because I either stayed there myself and had a great time, or heard lots of positive stories about it from other backpackers. The links I’ve put here are affiliate links. If you book a stay through one of those links, I’ll receive a small commission from Hostelworld or Booking, while you don’t pay anything extra! Thanks a lot for supporting my blog (:

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León

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Poco a Poco Hostel

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A typical social hostel that attracts lots of solo travellers. I particularly enjoyed the pot luck barbecue. Every bed has its own ventilator, which is much needed in León. A must in León is doing a free walking tour, and I signed up for one through the hostel’s reception!

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    • Ventilators next to bunk beds

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    • Big lockers in the dorm

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    • Cute patio

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    • Daily activities

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    • Lots of places to chill

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    • Communal kitchen

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Have a look at Poco a Poco on Hostelworld

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Have a look at Poco a Poco on Booking

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Managua

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Managua Backpacker’s Inn

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Not necessarily the most social hostel, but I guess Managua isn’t a popular stop in Nicaragua anyway. This is a good hostel location-wise; close to a shopping mall with La Colonia supermarket, and within walking distance of the best nightlife strip. The communal kitchen is spacious and complete.

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    • Small living room

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    • Terrace

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    • Swimming pool in the garden

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    • Communal kitchen

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    • Gated entrance

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Have a look at Managua Backpacker’s Inn on Hostelworld

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Have a look at Managua Backpacker’s Inn on Booking

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Little Corn Island

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Sunrise Paradise – Carlito’s Place

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Though it’s not a hostel, it’s a popular place to stay among backpackers. Along the east coast of the island, there are several beach cabins owned by different local families. Carlito’s place is one of them. Expect basic beds, a private bathroom, and a small terrace on the front with a hammock. Wake up early to witness an amazing sunrise from your hammock! There’s a small and limited communal kitchen (bring/buy your own oil/spices), but I can highly recommend having a budget-friendly dinner at Restaurante El Bosque (about a 10-min walk).

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    • Basic communal kitchen

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    • Ocean-front cabin

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    • Close to the main “town” and beautiful beaches

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    • No Wi-Fi, limited 3G

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Have a look at Carlito’s Place on Booking

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Granada

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De Boca en Boca Hostel

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This place has a sort of similar vibe as Poco a Poco, so I loved it! It’s located right next to the cathedral, just a couple of blocks away from the central square. I stayed in the 8-person dorm and 10-person dorm. They all had a ventilator next to the bed, and that wasn’t an unnecessary luxury, because it gets incredibly hot in Granada. There’s a big communal kitchen where it’s easy to meet other backpackers.

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    • On-site hostel bar

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    • Communal kitchen

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    • Patio with hammocks and seating areas

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    • Daily activities

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    • Free breakfast (pancakes)

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Have a look at De Boca en Boca on Hostelworld

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Have a look at De Boca en Boca on Booking

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Ometepe Island

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Casa Mauro

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It feels more like a guesthouse than a hostel. Mauro lives here with his family, so your money goes directly to a local family. He’s happy to help you out with anything! Casa Mauro is located in Moyagalpa, the main town of Isla Ometepe. You can easily walk to a supermarket and restaurants in town, and it’s super recommendable to rent a scooter and explore the island that way.

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    • Communal kitchen

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    • Terrace with hammocks and sofas

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    • Friendly hosts

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    • Animals in the garden (you might get woken up by a cockerel)

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Have a look at Casa Mauro on Hostelworld

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Have a look at Los Amigos on Booking

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Hospedaje Central*

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I switched to Hospedaje Central after one night in Casa Mauro because the latter was fully booked. Hospedaje Central is more like a very cheap hotel. There’s a big patio and an on-site bar/restaurant. The hotel’s description says there’s a communal kitchen, but this isn’t the case; it’s the restaurant’s kitchen which makes you feel like you’re walking in their way. You CAN store your food in their fridge though. I ended up making my own breakfast/lunch at the hostel and going out for dinner.

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    • On-site public bar and restaurant

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    • Central location in Moyagalpa

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    • Big patio with plenty of space to chill/work

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*they’re no longer on booking.com.

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San Juan del Sur

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Surf Town Hostel

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I’m usually avoiding party hostels, but I figured: I’m in San Juan del Sur, I might as well go for it. And I loved it! Surf Town is owned by a friendly Canadian, and has a nice bar where you’ll easily meet fellow (solo) backpackers and a swimming pool next to it. Loud music would stop at around 11 pm, which makes you able to sleep well if you want to. The communal kitchen is basic but decent enough to prepare your own meals.

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    • Swimming pool

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    • On-site hostel bar

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    • Daily activities

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    • No doors in the big dorms

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    • Plenty of showers and bathrooms (in the patio)

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    • Rooftop terrace

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Have a look at Surf Town Hostel on Hostelworld

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Hola Ola Hostel

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I also stayed at Hola Ola afterwards, since it had been recommended to me many times. The place didn’t live up to my expectations though. If you stay here, I would recommend doing so on a Saturday, as they organise a fun beach party weekly. Keep in mind that Hola Ola is located out of town; it’s about a 20 min walk along the beach to get to downtown. There’s no way to prep your own meals whilst staying at this hostel, which is a huge flaw for me, but I recommend having dinner at the local soda next door rather than at the hostel (cheaper and better)!

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    • No communal kitchen

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    • On-site restaurant

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    • Swimming pool

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    • Beach party on Saturdays

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    • Very clean dorms

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Have a look at Hola Ola on Hostelworld

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Looking for some more info about this part of the world? Have a look at my other destinations in Latin America.n

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Do you have any questions about my travels, or do you see a great opportunity to collaborate? Feel free to send me an Instagram DM or email (floraflies.nl@gmail.com).

Tulum: a mini guide to Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve

Written by admin on . Posted in Mexico. No Comments on Tulum: a mini guide to Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve

The highlight of my trip around the Yucatán Peninsula was a day trip to the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve. It’s home to lots of birds, reptiles and other species. What I particularly came visiting for, though, was the gorgeous underwater life you can find here. The Mesoamerican coral reef – which is the second-biggest reef in the world – stretches along the coast of Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve. It makes it a perfect spot for a boat tour, which is what I opted for. In this mini-guide, I’ll give you all the info about this day trip from Tulum.

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    1. A responsible visit

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    1. How to get there

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    1. About the tour

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A responsible visit

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First, I’d like to stress that this particular part of the Biosphere Reserve hasn’t yet been discovered by the big crowds that spend their holiday in Tulum. This could be due to the fact that it’s one hell of a road to get there. When we arrived and apologized to our guide for being late, he winked and told us with a smile: “This road keeps the people away.”

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Whether “to share or not to share” this activity has kept me debating. As I like supporting local businesses and giving alternatives for the Westernised Tulum, without potentially playing a role in making this spot go “viral”, I’ve decided to not geotag the location on Instagram, and write a blog post about it instead.

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To make sure your visit will be a responsible one:

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    • Leave nothing but footprints

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    • Grab food at one of the local restaurants

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    • Respect the locals and the town’s sleepy vibes

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    • Only wear sunscreen if it’s coral friendly

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How to get there

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Now that you’re ready to explore this place responsibly, it’s time to get into the details of the trip. The town where the snorkelling tour departs from is called Punta Allen. It’s the southernmost point of the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve, which is why this place isn’t as much visited as other places in the reserve. The town itself is small, quiet and only has a handful of restaurants. Bear in mind that there’s hardly any signal here! It’s located along the gorgeous coastline of the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve, which also makes it a great place to stay for a couple of beach days.

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The most convenient way to get to Punta Allen is by (rental) car. While it’s only about a 50 km drive from Tulum, it could take you up to 2-3 hours, depending on the type of car and how fast it can drive on a gravel road. If you’re starting in Tulum Pueblo, you should add another 30 minutes to get to the Hotel Zone and drive southwards along the coast from there. Where you leave Tulum and its Hotel Zone, you already drive into Sian Ka’an. You’ve got to pay a small fee (90 pesos, August 2021) here to enter the reserve, which is meant to keep the reserve protected in its best natural state. Turtles used to be hunted down, this luckily no longer happens.

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I’ve also seen a few minivans (colectivos) driving down the road, though I’m not sure whether they drive all the way down to Punta Allen. Your ho(s)tel should be able to help you out with transport if you don’t have a rental car. You could also book a full tour with transport from Tulum to Punta Allen (and back) included.

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About the tour

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I went with Explore Sian Ka’an on a 4-hour private boat tour (4 persons), which cost around €130 in total (no transport/food). An experienced guide takes you to different spots by boat. Wearing a life jacket is mandatory, and you’ll see why once the boat catches speed. As we bumped from the lagoon to the ocean, I couldn’t help but have a big smile on my face. The water has every shade of blue, you’ll pass mangroves and see lots of birds. This part of the trip is worth it already, though we haven’t made it to the actual highlights yet… We got to see a group of dolphins, a few turtles and a stingray when we were on our way to the coral reef. Magical! Once we made it to the Mesoamerican reef, our guide released the anchor, and we got to explore the underwater world. The coral is still quite colourful here, we saw lots of beautiful fish, and even a nurse shark! Before going back to Punta Allen, we went for one final swim in the clearest water I’ve ever seen. The perfect ending of the tour.

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Note that seeing dolphins, turtles, stingrays and sharks can never be 100% guaranteed.

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Looking for some more info about the Yucatán Peninsula? Have a look at my other blog articles about Mexico, or fly along to another destination! n

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Do you have any questions about my travels, or do you see a great opportunity to collaborate? Feel free to send me an Instagram DM or email (floraflies.nl@gmail.com).